Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
